Tools to help you plan with confidence.

• Get pre-approved before you shop. Touring homes you can't actually afford is the fastest way to fall in love with the wrong house. Pre-approval takes about 24-48 hours and costs nothing.
• Closing costs aren't included in your down payment. Plan on another 2-5% of the loan amount for title, appraisal, taxes, and lender fees. Some of this can be negotiated with the seller.
• Your "house payment" is more than principal and interest. Property taxes, homeowner's insurance, and PMI (if you put down less than 20%) usually get rolled into your monthly payment — sometimes adding $300-600.
• Earnest money is real money. Typically 1-3% of the offer price, held in escrow. You can lose it if you back out for reasons not protected by your contract contingencies.
• Don't make big financial moves during your loan. No new credit cards, no car purchases, no large unexplained deposits. Underwriting re-pulls credit close to closing.

Want a personalized roadmap for your situation? Let's talk →

• Conventional. The standard option. Requires stronger credit (typically 620+), but PMI drops off automatically once you hit 20% equity. Down payments can be as low as 3% for qualifying buyers.
• FHA. More flexible on credit (580+ for 3.5% down). The trade-off: mortgage insurance stays for the life of the loan if you put down less than 10%. Often a great bridge for buyers rebuilding credit.
• VA. Zero down, no PMI, ever — for qualifying service members, veterans, and certain surviving spouses. Often the best loan available if you've earned it.
• USDA. Zero down for eligible rural and suburban areas. Income limits apply. A lot of Oklahoma qualifies — most people don't realize they're eligible.
• Jumbo. For loan amounts above the conforming limit (around $766k in most counties). Stricter credit and reserve requirements.
• Specialty programs. One-time construction, physician loans, bank statement loans, and recast options exist for specific situations.

Not sure which fits you? Ask Brooke →

• Payment history is 35% of your score. Even one 30-day late payment can drop a 740 score by 60-80 points. Set autopay on the minimums at least.
• Credit utilization matters more than people realize. Keep balances under 30% of your limit, ideally under 10%. Utilization is calculated on the date your statement closes — not your due date.
• Don't close old credit cards before applying. Length of credit history is 15% of your score. That dusty old card you never use is helping you.
• The score you see in apps isn't the score lenders use. Most apps show FICO 8 or VantageScore. Mortgage lenders use FICO 2, 4, or 5 — and they pull all three bureaus and use the middle score.
• Soft inquiries don't hurt you. Checking your own credit, pre-qualifying online, or getting an insurance quote = soft pulls. Only formal credit applications create hard inquiries.

Want me to look at your specific credit picture? Let's review it →

• Pre-qualification is a conversation. A quick look at your income, debts, and credit — usually self-reported. It gives you a ballpark of what you might qualify for. Helpful as a starting point, but not verified.
• Pre-approval is verified. I pull your credit and review actual income documentation, asset statements, and employment. You walk away with a written letter that carries real weight in a competitive offer.
• Sellers can tell the difference. In a multiple-offer situation, a pre-approval letter signals you've done the work. A pre-qualification might get passed over.
• Pre-approval letters are time-sensitive. Most are valid 60-90 days. If you're still looking past that window, we'll refresh it.
• Start with a pre-qualification conversation. It's free, no credit pull required, and takes about 15 minutes. From there, we decide together when to move into a full pre-approval.

Ready to start with a quick pre-qualification chat? Let's talk →